A Self-Drive Guide to Visiting Kerlingarfjöll

Tucked away in Iceland's central Highlands lies Kerlingarfjöll, a mountain range of otherworldly beauty where ice and fire collide. Unlike any other place on the island, its rhyolite mountains are painted in shades of red, yellow, and orange, with steam rising from geothermal vents scattered across the valleys. This is a landscape that feels raw, ancient, and alive.

Reaching Kerlingarfjöll is an adventure in itself, requiring a journey across the rugged F-roads of the Icelandic interior. A self-drive expedition is the best way to experience its wonders, offering the freedom to explore at your own pace. This guide provides all the essential information for planning your trip, from selecting the right vehicle to navigating the terrain safely. Learn how a capable 4x4 from Höldur Car Rental is your key to unlocking this geothermal paradise.

What is Kerlingarfjöll?

Kerlingarfjöll, meaning "Old Woman's Mountains," is a vast volcanic mountain range that was once a summer skiing destination. Today, the ski lifts are gone, and the area has been reclaimed by nature, attracting hikers and adventurers drawn to its unique geothermal features and vibrant colors. The mountains are made of rhyolite, a type of volcanic rock that creates a stunning palette when colored by mineral deposits from the hot springs.

The heart of the region is the Hveradalir geothermal area, a valley filled with bubbling mud pots, hissing fumaroles, and steaming rivers. Hiking trails weave through this active landscape, allowing you to get up close to the powerful forces shaping the earth. It is a place of incredible contrast, where snowfields often linger into late summer just meters away from boiling hot springs.

The Challenge and Reward of the Journey

The trip to Kerlingarfjöll is a true Highland adventure. It is located far from paved roads and requires navigating Iceland’s challenging F-roads. These are unpaved gravel tracks that are often rough and steep. The journey is part of the experience, taking you through the stark, beautiful desert of the Icelandic interior.

The reward for this effort is access to a landscape of unparalleled beauty and solitude. A self-drive tour allows you to set your own schedule, linger on hiking trails, and absorb the serene, powerful atmosphere of the Highlands. It’s an opportunity to disconnect from the everyday and connect with nature in its rawest form.

The Essential Vehicle: A Capable 4x4

A 4x4 rental in Iceland is not optional for this trip; it is a legal requirement for driving on all F-roads. The routes to Kerlingarfjöll are rough and can be demanding, so a vehicle with high clearance and a robust suspension is essential for a safe and comfortable journey.

Höldur offers a fleet of reliable 4x4s designed for Highland travel, including popular models like the Dacia Duster and Toyota Land Cruiser. You can begin your adventure fully prepared by picking up your vehicle from our convenient locations at Keflavik International Airport or in Central Reykjavik.

Planning Your Self-Drive Trip to Kerlingarfjöll

A journey into the Highlands demands careful planning. The environment is remote and conditions can be unpredictable, so self-sufficiency is key.

The Short Summer Access Window

Kerlingarfjöll is only accessible during the summer months, typically from mid-June to mid-September. The opening and closing of the F-roads depend entirely on snow conditions and can vary each year. It is crucial to check the official road status on umferdin.is before you travel.

The Kjölur Route: F35

The primary route to Kerlingarfjöll is the F35, also known as the Kjölur road (Kjalvegur). This historic path runs north-south through the center of Iceland, connecting Gullfoss waterfall in the south to the Ring Road in the north.

• From the South: You can access the F35 just past Gullfoss. From here, it’s about a 70 km (43 mile) drive on the gravel road to the turn-off for Kerlingarfjöll (F347).
• From the North: You can access the F35 from the Ring Road between Blönduós and Varmahlíð.

Unlike many other F-roads, the F35 does not have any major unbridged river crossings, making it one of the more accessible Highland routes. However, the road is still very rough, bumpy, and corrugated in sections, so driving requires care and reduced speed.

What to See and Do in Kerlingarfjöll

Once you arrive at the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort, you can park your car and begin exploring on foot.

Hveradalir Geothermal Area

The main event is the Hveradalir valley, or "Valley of Hot Springs." From the resort, you can drive a few more kilometers up a steep track to a dedicated car park for Hveradalir. From here, a network of well-maintained hiking trails and boardwalks leads you through the heart of the geothermal area. You will wander past steaming vents, pools of bubbling mud, and rivers colored by silica and other minerals. The contrast between the colorful rhyolite mountains, the green moss, the white snow, and the rising steam is breathtaking.

Hiking Trails

Kerlingarfjöll is a hiker's paradise, with trails ranging from short, easy walks to challenging full-day treks.

• Hveradalir Circle: This popular loop through the main geothermal area takes 1-2 hours and allows you to see the key features up close.
• Ascent of Snækollur: For a more challenging hike, the trail to the summit of Snækollur, the highest peak in the range, offers incredible panoramic views of the Highlands.
• Longer Treks: Multi-day hiking routes connect Kerlingarfjöll to other areas, offering a deep immersion into the wilderness.

Essential Safety Precautions for the Highlands

Traveling in the Icelandic Highlands requires respect for nature and a focus on safety.

• Check Road and Weather Conditions: Always check road.is and vedur.is before you start your journey. Weather in the Highlands can change with little warning.
• Drive Cautiously: The F35 is rough. Drive slowly to avoid damage to your vehicle and ensure a more comfortable ride.
• Have a Full Tank of Fuel: The last fuel station before entering the Kjölur route from the south is at Geysir. Fill up your tank completely before heading into the interior.
• Pack for All Seasons: Even in summer, the weather can be cold, wet, and windy. Bring warm layers, waterproof clothing, a hat, gloves, and sturdy hiking boots.
• Bring Food and Water: There is a restaurant at the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort, but it’s wise to bring your own snacks and water for the day, especially when hiking.

FAQs About Visiting Kerlingarfjöll

How long does it take to drive to Kerlingarfjöll?

From Gullfoss, expect the drive to the Kerlingarfjöll turn-off to take around 1.5-2 hours. Plan for a full day to make the round trip from the Ring Road and have several hours for hiking. An overnight stay at the resort is highly recommended to fully experience the area.

Is Kerlingarfjöll suitable for a day trip from Reykjavik?

While technically possible, it would be a very long and rushed day (over 8-10 hours of driving alone). It is best experienced as part of a multi-day trip through the Highlands or with an overnight stay.

Are there facilities at Kerlingarfjöll?

Yes, the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort offers a range of accommodations, from hotel rooms to a campsite. There is also a restaurant and a small shop.

Is it safe to hike in Hveradalir?

Yes, as long as you stay on the marked trails and boardwalks. The ground around the hot springs can be unstable and extremely hot. Never step off the designated paths.

Explore Iceland with Höldur’s 4x4 Car Rentals

A journey to Kerlingarfjöll is an unforgettable adventure into a land of vibrant color and raw geothermal power. It’s a true expedition that rewards careful planning with lifelong memories. With a dependable 4x4 from Höldur, you have the key to unlock one of Iceland’s most spectacular and exclusive destinations.

Start your Iceland adventure with Höldur, Iceland’s leading provider of rugged and reliable 4x4 rental cars. Whether you’re exploring the stunning Icelandic Highlands, chasing waterfalls, or driving the famous Ring Road, our fleet is built to handle every terrain and season.

As Iceland’s largest car rental company, we proudly offer over 8,000 vehicles, ensuring you’ll find the perfect car for your trip. Höldur is the official Europcar franchisee in Iceland, delivering trusted, professional service you can rely on.

Planning to rent a car at Keflavik Airport? Höldur is one of just three authorized car rental providers located inside Keflavik International Airport. Our rental desk is conveniently situated in the arrivals hall, right after Customs, and your car will be ready in the nearby airport parking lot, just a short walk from the terminal.

When you rent a car in Iceland with Höldur, you’ll enjoy the freedom and flexibility to explore safely and confidently. Our 4x4 vehicles are perfect for Iceland’s unique roads, including F-roads in the Highlands, ensuring you’re ready for any adventure.

Book your Iceland car rental today and experience the journey of a lifetime. From glaciers to geysers, Höldur will be by your side, making your adventure unforgettable.